COCOA is a very rare coloured greyhound. She is dun ( brown ). She is very ill indeed and we are desperately seeking a possible cure for her illness. Her immune system is not functioning. She has had radium therapy and her beautiful brown fur is falling out. Her skin is very red and very hot. Homeopathic medical attention is not possible as she has also been given steroid treatment. Their effect is still active within her. Her appetite is just starting to fail. She has been ill for 18 months. Her Mummy is desperate. Any helpful information would be very gratefully received. Please see her picture below with her friend Thor.

Aw poor wee cocoa bless her! My thoughts go out to her mummy as well she must be frantic. Hope that someone has some ideas as to what may help her - fingers crossed!! x

What has she been diagnosed with? Is it only an immunity deficiency? Maybe it is the result of the radium therapy? Please try to use this link:
http://www.euroherbsshop.nl/wei-qi-booster-200-teapills-p-1894.html?osCsid=d6d0893a4b143cd5f1d5161e7f2bf0c3

This medication has been designated for dogs and cats.

Maybe this medication is also available in the UK. This medication contains Astralagus. More about it: Many Chinese herbs have strong immunity-enhancing effects. Astragalus is very well-known for its powerful "non-specific" immune system stimulating capacity, which works by increasing the numbers and activity of roving white blood cells. A study conducted at the University of Texas Medical Center in Houston showed that astragalus extracts were able to completely restore the function of immune cells in cancer patients. The immune system can certainly be tonified, or even completely restored, by using this herb. This sweet-tasting root is often sliced and simmered in chicken broth, or cooked with vegetable soup. As effective as astragalus is by itself, Chinese herbal formulas actually achieve a much stronger effect than single herbs. An herbal formula is not only more powerful than a single herb, but can cover a wider range of symptoms.

poor wee soul, I hope someone can find a treatment that will help.

Has she been to a vet school (ie dick vet etc) for treatment ?

I Have heard of a cream called Dermacton from a company called Aromesse, that is good for skin conditions, although this is not a cure it may help to relieve some of the soreness on her skin and make her feel more comfortable.
Product is available online.

Assuming this dog has been treated for mites, and has been to the vet for a check up....

My assumptions will be - that this dog has an allergy...it could be a food allergy, or something as simple as as dust mites.

I would hope Cocoa has been to a dermatologist - but if not - this dog should therefore go to a dermatologist...who will do a RAST test - it is a small sample of blood taken and used to determine to what substances a dog is allergic. (this is not expensive - and at cost price is around £70 for the lab to do). You will be charged a bit extra for admin expenses etc

It is stated that the dog has been ill for quite sometime...

I would be interested to know - how old the dog is?

When was Cocoa re-homed/or has homing situ changed in the last 18 months?

And what are the living standards?

ie carpet in all rooms
bedding?
Where is Cocoa exercised? (Grass/weeds may play a big part)

Also have you seen any moment of calm, when it seems to get better or calms down - time of year etc

Is Cocoa exercise on lead only, pavement walks etc (this may elumentate grass and weeds).

What needs to happen is to look back at when all was okay...what food did she eat, where did she walk.

Cocoa looks a mess and is clearly sore. So I would visit the vet and get a referral to the Royal Dick ASAP...if it were me! They have staff that will know how to help & if funds are a problem - am sure we could do a fund-raiser on-line to help her, be it ebay, or some other form of action.

She clearly is a fighter, and I can understand the pain and frustration you must be going through, it must be awful to see her this way.

I was lucky enough to meet Cocoa last week. She is a sweet little thing and I hope she makes a full recovery - she certainly deserves it.

Hi Charlie Boy.
Thanks for your help.
Cocoa is just over 4 years old and was rehomed 3 years ago. The trouble started 18 months ago and she has been treated regularly by her vet ever since. The vet has been working in conjunction with the Glasgow vet college.
Many things have been tried but basically she has an extremely deficient immune system. This allows mites, which live in normal dogs without trouble, to affect virtually her whole body. The root problem may, or may not be cancer, but she is basically suffering from demodectic mange.
She has been failing considerably recently and we are looking for any advice which may have been overlooked.
At the moment she is on special washes, which hopefully will improve her condition, but nobody is sure. She is not allowed cream or ointment.
Thank you for your help.
Celia and Jimmy.

Well I do not think she has not been to the vet. A radium and steroid therapies are done strictly under medical supervision. The question is what she had been diagnosed with that she had to undergo such therapies? I have never heard about treating mites with radium... Was it only a skin disease or maybe something else?
Demodectic mange
Main article: Demodicosis

A dog with severe demodectic mange

Also called demodicosis or Red Mange, demodectic mange in dogs is caused by a sensitivity to and overpopulation of Demodex canis as the animal's immune system is unable to keep the mites under control. There are two types of demodectic mange: localized and generalized. Localized consists of 4 spots or less. Most dogs are immune to demodectic mange, however dogs with compromised immune systems and the elderly are at a higher risk. It is not contagious to humans.
Sarcoptic mange

A street dog in Bali, Indonesia, suffers from sarcoptic mange.

Sarcoptes scabiei

Puppy with Sarcoptic mange

Also known as canine scabies, sarcoptic mange is a highly contagious infestation of Sarcoptes scabiei canis, a burrowing mite. The canine sarcoptic mite can also infest humans (scabies), cats, pigs, horses, sheep and various other species.

These mites dig into and through the skin, causing intense itching and crusting that can quickly become infected. Hair loss and crusting frequently appear first on elbows and ears. Skin damage can occur from the dog's intense scratching and biting. Secondary skin infection is also common. Dogs with chronic sarcoptic mange are often in poor condition.


Treatment

Dogs affected with demodectic mange do not need to be isolated from other dogs. Demodectic mange is generally only contagious from mother to pup during suckling. Demodectic mange is not contagious after weaning. Many puppies will grow out of demodectic mange as their immune systems mature. Demodectic mange can re-occur if the immune system is compromised such as after steroid treatment or other immune-compromising illness. Treatment with ivermectin is often prescribed by vets along with skin scrapings. Ivermectin is often continued until two negative skin scrapings are achieved.

In cases of Sarcoptic mange, affected dogs need to be isolated from other dogs and their bedding, and places they have occupied must be thoroughly cleaned. Other dogs in contact with a diagnosed case should be evaluated and treated.

There are a number of parasitical treatments useful in treating canine scabies. Sulfurated lime rinses applied weekly or bi-weekly are effective. Selamectin is licensed for treatment by veterinary prescription in several countries; it is applied as a drip-on directly to the skin. Unlicensed, but frequently used, ivermectin is given by mouth for two to four weekly treatments; this drug is not safe to use on some collie-like herding dogs, however, due to possible homozygous MDR1 (P-glycoprotein) mutations that increase its toxicity. Other ivermectin drugs are also effective, but none are licensed for use on dogs. Topical 1% ivermectin has been reported to be effective in humans and many types of animals (especially in ear mite infections where the animal cannot lick the treated area), and is so poorly absorbed that systemic toxicity is less likely in these sites. Nevertheless, topical ivermectin has not been well enough tested to be approved for this use in dogs, and is theoretically much more dangerous in zones where the animal can potentially lick the treated area.
Diagnosis

Veterinarians usually attempt diagnosis with skin scrapings from multiple areas, which are then examined under a microscope for mites. Sarcoptes, because they may be present in relatively low numbers, and because they are often removed by dogs chewing at themselves, may be difficult to demonstrate. As a result, diagnosis in Sarcoptic mange is often based on symptoms rather than actual confirmation of the presence of mites. A common and simple way of determining if a dog has mange is if it displays what is called a "Pedal-Pinna reflex", which is when the dog moves one of its hind legs in a scratching motion as the ear is being manipulated and scratched gently by the examiner; because the mites proliferate on the ear margins in nearly all cases at some point, this method works over 95% of the time. It is helpful in cases where all symptoms of mange are present but no mites are observed with a microscope. In some countries, a serologic test is available that may be useful in diagnosis.

You may also ask your vet about BIOSTIN, a natural drug which helps to rebuild the natural immunity system. You may find a lot of information about it on the internet as well. LINK:
http://www.quantium.plus.com/lr/lr24.htm

This is nothing that would cure her mange, however when we first got Quincy when he started casting his kennel coat, his skin was very irritated and red. We tried several things to no avail and were recommended an oil called velcote. It has worked wonders for Quincy and would possibly help with any discomfort and irritation from the mange. You can purchase it online at zooplus and you give them it orally amount dependant on their weight. Its not overly expensive either.
My parents oldest viszla had problems with his skin it didnt cause his fur to fall out however he was very red irritated and had sores on his underneath; and as charlie boy said went for rast testing which showed up eventually that he was allergic to certain grass pollens and Jack used to go the vet every month for an injection.
I hope there is someone or something out there that can help this girl.

Karen

Bless her. Poor wee soul, she looks so sore & sad. Sorry I can't suggest anyhing to help but got everything crossed that something is found to help her

Has Cocoa been checked for Cushing's disease? Coat would fall out and skin becomes very fragile and sore.
Steroids will only make this worse.

I think the most important thing is to rebuild Cocoa's immunity. That will help to cure the mange. As far as I have noticed right she has the type of mange which occurs when the immunity system has deteriorated. She needs a medication that helps to boost it. Then everything should be back to the normal.

would it be worth finding out which "five figure sum" of drugs were used on this dog with amazing results !

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1361770/Britains-saddest-puppy-cheers-Hairless-Princess-loving-new-home.html

(might need to copy & paste into browser)

I have found this article on one of the dog Polish websites. It is an unconventional method of treatment. Very cheap and amazingly effective. The author of the post and people who used this method to cure mange were delighted with the effects.

TED'S MANGE CURE (MOST POPULAR)
WARNING!!!
DO NOT CONFUSE BORAX WITH BORIC ACID!
DO NOT USE BORIC ACID IN PLACE OF BORAX!

Ted from Bangkok, Thailand writes, "The best cure for dog mange is to mix a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution with water and add borax. Dissolve thoroughly. Wash the dog with it once a week. Do NOT WASH THE solution left on the dog with ANY WATER. Do not wipe the dog dry. The solution will take effect on mange. The treatment period should not be longer than a month or two. The dog will probably not be resistant as the treatment is painless. This has worked well for me."

More Exact Measurements (excerpted from various emails on our Reader Question & Answer Section)

Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."


"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."

"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."

"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."

"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "

"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."

"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."

TED'S UPDATE
7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.

The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.

In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.

VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.

Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.

I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.

I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work."

The most interesting thing is that mites love to eat borax but it dries them from the inside causing their death quite quickly. I have read many opinion of people distraught by conventional treatment giving no effects. They found it the only effective remedy for their dogs. If you have any questions I can translate it from Polish (a fantastic description of one of the Polish users gives full information how to prepare all the "ingredients" needed). He said that he spent about 1500 pounds using traditional medicines with no effect, and 5 pounds for the borax therapy making his dog healthy.

The problem with Cocoa is fear.
There must have been/is something unsettling in her life to make her this way.
From a physiological point of view, it is the liver that is affected so she will need something to reinforce the liver. The best thing for this is a herbal tincture of milk thistle - probably three drops in her drinking water every day should clear it.
In addition, the use of a tincture of cleavers will also greatly help. Again, three drops in her drinking water every day.
The two tinctures can be used together and they will not affect any vet pharmaceutical treatment.
In addition, from a healing viewpoint, you need to reinforce the first and second chakras.
The first is located on the spine where the tail meets the body and the second is where the front legs meet the spine.
When you are giving healing, specifically work on those two points. Just say to yourself, as you start healing, that you want to concentrate the healing on first the chakra at the tail and then the shoulders. You might have to do this a couple of times.
But most importantly of all, find out why the dog is afraid and try to find a solution to the underlying problem.

Best wishes
Pauline

I think it would be worthy of reading and then extending our knowledge on the internet if someone finds it interesting...

http://www.ukcolloidalsilver.co.uk/


I can say that I found quite a few hopeless cases of mange successfully treated after colloidal silver had been used. Please, read and explore more on the internet. It might be the right way to treat the dogs whom the conventional medicine has not helped...
What I have found in England that doctors are not into advising any herbal, natural treatments. In Eastern Europe herbs are very popular in curing many diseases...

Here you can see the result of a borax treatment.
Look at the link and the first gallery shows the dog before the treatment and the second one (below) 2 months later...

http://www.atos.ovh.org/wnioski.htm


Sorry this site is devoted to the dog called "Atos" but only in Polish

Hi Folks,
It is with heavy hearts that we have to report that wee Cocoa was PTS last night. Marylla ( her mummy ) the vet and we, all agreed that enough was enough for the poor little girl. She finally stopped eating and couldn't stand up and was obviously in pain. She was going downhill very fast.
She was one of the most beautiful greyhounds that we have ever seen, with a nature to match.
God bless little girl, the pain has now gone, so go over the bridge and play with your friends.
Thanks to all the kind people who gave their time and effort to find a cure for the little girl. Your help was greatly appreciated.
Celia and Jimmy.

Run Free and out of pain dear Cocoa. You're one of the most beautiful hounds I've ever seen

Michele

So sorry to hear this. Our thoughts are with you at this difficult time.

Rest in Peace Cocoa. Thinking of Cocoa's owners and totally understand the grief and pain they must be going through.

I am so very,very sorry to hear this. Rest in Peace,lovely girl.

God bless you wee girl

Run free over the bridge darling girl. Our thoughts are with her owners x

Karen and Pat Brundell and Ace

So very sad to hear. Run free over the rainbow bridge little lovely. Thoughts are with her family who must be heartbroken

just reading through this full story im so so sorry to here Cocoa had to be PTS run free girl free from all pain you were beautiful-my heart gos out to your mumy xxxxxx